2012年2月3日金曜日

Gold Coast!!

Hi, there!! I come back this blog and keep continue write my diary. first of all, I visited and living Gold Coast in Australia. There have good wave where most famous surf point called Burlie Heads. I going to surrfing and study English every day. My brother come Australia too, he and me moved here yesterday and this moarning was first surffing from I moved this house. 

Then, I got disaster!!

5;00 am, people come to see the number is around 20 people. Wave was around 2meater. Yhea, it`s all right. When I dive into the see from rock point and paddling to offshore. But my board stock on the shitting rock and I look to foward wave come and come. I thought just OMG.

My body was knocked by rock I got cut some point. This is my first of surffing disaster I got lueaned about when I into the see, I`d no dive from rock when wave is big this is serious.

I can`t walk first, I can`t move quickly, I can`t something to do.

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